Season 3, Day 15: Very Spanish

 It’s Sunday in Barcelona which means it’s once again my day off (cue the eye rolls). I’ve spent today pretending that I live here. Doing the things I would normally do on a beautiful Sunday. Now this was not a perfect exercise as I am without my family at the moment. This cuts out a solid 2 hours of coffee, reading and puzzle games in the morning with my beautiful wife next to me. It also cuts out me making waffles for the kids. (Man I could go for a waffle right now…)  

So what did I do today? Well, I needed my coffee fix so I went to the nearest place and grabbed an espresso. I’ve found that I’m a sucker for the tiny cups and spoons. Tan pequeno! (So tiny!) All fueled up, I decided to go for a run down to the beach and back. Now don’t get excited, it was only 3 miles, round trip. (We’re very lucky here and I do not take it for granted.) Much to my surprise, the beach was already quite busy. (When do Spaniards sleep?!) After a quick shower, I needed food so I found a brunch place with good reviews. Eggs so orange they could have been….well oranges. An amazing yogurt/fruit/granola bowl drizzled in honey. And one more espresso…you know just to keep things interesting. ;) 

I’m now downtown in the Gothic Quarter and have several hours to kill in this day. Fortunately, it’s the first Sunday of the month, which means most museums in the city are free! I take full advantage and visit the Indigenous peoples museum as well as the Picasso museum. The Picasso museum tells a great chronological story of his progression as an artist. It’s amazing to see how talented he was even as a child. (You can spot some of the early drawings based on the fact that his characters are pooping…kids.) 

After an hour of strolling through gift shops and vintage retail stores, I’m tired and decide to go home to relax. Ordinarily, I would cook something at the home for dinner, relax with a movie, and call it a very successful day. Today I have to grab dinner at a local restaurant, which is fine. 

This exercise of pretending to live in Spain got me thinking, what does it mean to be Spanish? A few observations from this gringo (I could be way off on these, so to my new Spanish friends…take this with a grain of salt):

• Kiss each other twice in the cheeks when greeting someone
• Have both a glass of wine and a coffee in the same meal
• Understand the importance of carrying a personal fan
• Walk…a lot 
• Men: Rock a sweet mustache
• Women: Perhaps forget to wear a top at the beach
• Know exactly which areas of the city you need to watch your belongings
• Be fiercely loyal to at least one futbol team
• Probably speak more than 1 language 
• Have meaningful conversations with family and friends on a daily basis
• Argue about whether paella should or should not include onions (it should)
• Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em
• Say “Vale” (which sounds like “Bale” and means OK) a lot - it’s my favorite word
• Speak loud and probably with your hands
• Listen to a lot of American music from the 90s and 2000s
• Drink several small coffees or espressos throughout the day (vs one big gulp at the beginning of the day)
• Linger for conversation after each meal (sobremesa)
• Know your Spanish history 
• Appreciate eco-friendly practices
• Appreciate Spanish art
• Appreciate local, hand-made products
• Get a tattoo…or twenty
• Start thinking about having dinner at about 9 or 10 PM (seriously, when do you sleep?!) 
• Work to live
• Live in the moment
• Spend most leisure time outside and with people

This is obviously not an exhaustive list and heavily biased as I have spent most of my time in four Spanish cities (not rural areas). But from my perspective (such that it is) this is a great list! And to be Spanish is a very good thing. 

Like peanut butter and jelly. 

I can’t say I’m a huge beach guy, but I’m willing to try!

Early “scribbles” of Picasso as a child. 

Picasso loved the beach. That’s him, trust me! 

The Woman with Mantilla, 1917

Look at those eggs! 

Season 3, Day 12: This is Barcelona

Well, we made it to Barcelona and I’m happy to report no sightings of Darth Vader or the Empire here. (You’re welcome universe) This is my third time here (charm) and each visit is better than the last. What really stands out this time is a city that is extremely passionate, creative, progressive, and just chalk (chock?) full of innovation.

For example, yesterday we visited the Olympic museum in Barcelona and learned how Barcelona used the games as a way of not only highlighting their city and newly found post-Franco democracy to the world, but also as a springboard for promoting physical activity and sport for future generations. The new facilities built are still in use today and are made available at a low cost for locals. (I got next on the gymnastics bars!!) 

In the Paralympic section of the museum, a quote by Stephen Hawking stood out: “We are all special in our own way. Each one of us has a sparkle of fire inside, a creative force.”  This is what I have noticed about the people here. So much originality and a sense of pride that goes along with it. And this seems to bleed into nearly every corner of the city.

Yesterday we took a bike ride (2 hrs, 8 miles, 1 crash)  throughout many neighborhoods of the city and were shown so many works of public art. Statues, murals, architecture, gardens, street art….you name it. Hell even the coffee baristas are regularly flexing their creative muscles!! (Is that the Mona Lisa?!)

Today we heard from Professor Oriol Marquet on the innovative ways in which Barcelona City Council has designed their city with the sole intention of promoting public health. This includes policies that limit noise,  pollution, and heat in the city center while also maximizing biking and walking in the city center. And these policies work! Thoughtful and creative designs have resulted in one of the most densely populated cities in the world (50,000+ per square km) REDUCING pollution over the last 10 years. It can be done! (Gentle reminder to vote this fall) 

We ended of the day with a visit to Camp Nou, which is the home to the world famous FC Barcelona club. And when I say world famous, I mean it! One of their games last year attracted over 550 million viewers. That’s 4 times the viewership of the Super Bowl - that also included Bad Bunny! And the stadium tour didn’t disappoint!  The stadium is of course, under construction to add more seats to the most popular football club in the world. The immersive museum is actually THE most visited museum in Spain! (Sorry Prado, Sofia Reina, Picasso, Gaudi - maybe next time.) But what’s great about this club (and mini football clubs in Europe for that matter) is their dedication to social & economic causes. The stadium will be powered with solar panels and will serve a cauldron for collecting and storing rainwater. The club also dedicates close to one percent of all revenue to vulnerable populations in the region. In fact, the club motto “More than a club” - was coined in 1968 to signify the club being a symbol of Catalan culture, democratic values, and social responsibility. 

A quick side note on the Catalan culture. Barcelona is in the Catalan region. Catalans have their own language which is spoken by over 10 million people (not bad).  And there is a tremendous amount of pride that comes with being Catalan. In fact, when asked where he was from, our tour guide at Camp Nou said he was Catalan, not Spanish.

Barcelona and the Catalan region is unique in its creativity but also its commitment to social good.  The people here are original, unapologetically passionate, and authentic. It’s impossible not to fall in love with both the place and its residents. This is Barcelona. 

Stormtroopers survey Guadi’s beautiful fountain in the Parc de Cuitadella in Barcelona. 

Statue of woman, Unknown

Carmela by Juame Plensa, 2015

Mural de la sida by Keith Harding, 1989 

Biking along the iconic Barcelona Beach. Hey that’s where they filmed Cobra Kai! 

Students observing the pitch at Camp Nou stadium. “Barça, Barça, Baaarça!”

This statue (El Peix or Fish) was constructed by Frank Gehry who did the Guggenheim in Bilbao. Missing a head (future) and tail (past), this suggests it is the present what matters. Very Yoda. 

Season 3, Day 9: Is this working??

Sadly, our time Madrid is over and we are currently on the 3 hr TRAIN to Barcelona. Long time readers (both of you) will know that I’m a HUGE fan of traveling by train in Europe. (Woo,woo!!! 🚂 - lo siento - won’t happen again) Comfy reclining seats, fancy glass car doors that slide open as if they came from the Death Star, and a cafe stocked with some pretty darn good coffee and snacks?! What’s not to love!?! (Man I want to do one more train sound right now! 🤐)

Before we left Madrid, we enjoyed a big family dinner together at a nearby Italian restaurant. Twenty four people enjoying pasta, pizza, and light hearted conversation - a great way close the first chapter of our journey together. I’m so thankful for this group of students. They’ve really embraced the family dynamic of the class. They invite each other to events. They look out for each other. They tease each other when someone (it was Ryan) spills 15 lolly pops while getting on a busy train. (In fairness he thought it was one giant lolly and wasn’t prepared to manage so many at once.)  It’s hard to imagine this group didn’t know each other just 9 days ago!

After dinner, Garrett asked me an important question (as he tends to do) - Do I feel like I am “teaching” during this class? I’ve given this question some thought as well as a related question - Is this class working?  I have to say -Yes to both. Now this is not the typical “professor lectures at students” class format. I don’t administer quizzes or exams. I don’t hold office hours. I don’t really do anything that I normally do in a traditional class that I teach at the university. 

So what do I do? First and foremost, I recruit a group of capable, motivated, and crime free students (seriously, we background check). And not to toot my own horn (oh Lord, here comes that train sound urge again!!!), but I think I’ve done a fair job of identifying students who are up to this challenge. 

As far as teaching goes, I see my primary role as curating an experience and giving these students opportunities to learn. I’ve identified specific learning outcomes which I put in front of these students to keep them on track. I work with our vendor (CIEE - bless you!) to identify experiences that reinforce the learning outcomes. And then I let them loose. Students are simply asked to explore, observe and reflect on their observations. To survive in this foreign country, they MUST also get to know each other, be patient with each other, communicate, work together, and problem solve. These just so happen to be the professional skills that we try to promote in all classes as we know these are the things they will need to succeed as future healthcare providers (and humans). 

My first argument in support of me actually working/teaching during this class (and not just finding a clever loophole to travel Europe each summer whilst being paid) is that I’m tired. I feel like I’ve put in a good day of work each night. I also do a lot of counting heads, checking in on students, making sure they get from A to B, and just being available when needed (like a Jedi knight you might say….[insert 5 minutes of day dreaming].

My second (and strongest argument) - the students are learning. Not just getting good grades…learning. In 9 days, these students have learned:  

• What hostels look like in Europe (they can be lovely)
• The tenets of the Mediterranean lifestyle
• How to cook four new Spanish dishes (Gazpacho is a drink…confirmed)
• How to eat and order food in Spain
• How to navigate a food market in Spain
• How to communicate with someone who doesn’t speak English
• How to create ridiculous AI images of their professor that should never see the light of day outside their group chat (Credit: Collin)
• How the U.S. healthcare system compares to the Spanish universal system (spoiler alert: it doesn’t)
• How police, safety, and facilities & maintenance systems contribute to the healthcare system
• How empty some ICU units are in Spanish private hospitals 
• How to navigate a massive public transit system
• How to score tickets to an electronic music festival
• The amazing talents of Pablo Picasso and Goya
• A fair bit about the history of the Spanish royal family (very Game of Thrones like!)
• The brilliance and beauty of Spanish architecture 
• How Spaniards exercise and stay fit
• How to practice yoga
• The importance of packing lightly when traveling by train (still working on this one)
• How to travel in a large group (not easy)
• And how to live in a city of 3.5 million people (6.8 million in the greater metro - no big deal)

And I’m sure this is not an exhaustive list. These students have seen so much that I’ll never know about.  They are natural born explorers……and are now on their way to a new land where they will find Darth Vader, vanquish him and his followers, and bring peace to the galaxy!! (What happened?!? I think I dozed off.)  See you in Barcelona…

A sign in a local coffee shop sums it up “Madrid is always good vibes”

Yoga in the park. Footage of me doing a full headstand was unfortunately lost in a giant fire. 

A local physician explains how Spain’s universal healthcare system costs less, covers everyone, and results in better quality care. Maybe we should consider making a switch?

Ryan - Capable, motivated, no criminal history, Lolly pop guy. 

Season 3, Day 7: Slow your roll

Another beautiful day in paradise. 85 and sunny. And it’s Sunday which means it’s the weekend and my day off! (Ok, I can literally feel the eye rolls people…this teaching stuff is real work!!)

Sundays in Spain are meant for family, leisure (more than usual which is saying something), and if you practice - a trip to your local place of faith. I’ve also noticed Sundays are noticeably more relaxed than other days. So I wanted to dive in a bit on a philosophy known as ‘slow living’. (Cover your ears workaholics.)

Much of slow living comes from the slow food movement which was born in the 1980s in Italy by Carlo Petrini who passed away just last week. It is said Petrini started this movement in response to a McDonald’s being built next to the Spanish steps in Rome. It wasn’t that Petrini had “beef” with Ronny McDonald specifically (see what I did there?), but rather he opposed the idea of an industrialized food system that mass produces foods that are bad for human health and the environment. (Cue Homer Simpson: “Mmmmm…preservatives.”)  Rather, he argued in favor of policies that make good, clean, sustainable foods available to everyone. (Sorry Ronny, point goes to Petrini in my book.)

Eating slowly is generally recommended as a strategy to maintain a healthy weight. Slower, eating allows satiety hormones time to kick in and promote a sense of fullness before we finish that entire deep dish. (Well I guess that was the last notch on this belt…trash.) 

This pertains to the drinking culture as well. I’ve heard more than one Spaniard describe American drinking as a sprinting event whereas Spaniards treat it like a marathon. There may be some truth here. I watched an unhealthy amount of Looney Tunes as a kid and from what I recall, Cecil the turtle always seemed to beat the speedy Bugs Bunny, despite his methodical and arrogant style. (I learned a lot from that show………..)

Anyhoo, slow living goes beyond food. There’s an entire field of research on the health benefits of mindfulness and living in the moment. Mindful practice reduces stress and strengthens our immune system. It’s about being intentional with our daily tasks. Not always juggling 15 things at once. (I can type this email and mow the yard at the same time, right?) Being selective in the products we buy (sorry Five Below) while thinking about the environment we are leaving to future generations. It’s about choosing quality over quantity. 

I have observed a lot of this in practice in Spain over the last few days. Today, I went to the massive Rastro flea market which has been held every Sunday in Madrid since 1740! Local vendors sell gently used (or very used)  products to people who literally walk at a snail’s pace to ensure they don’t miss the deal of the day. (Dude, what do you think about this sleeveless fur coat? It’s only 15 Euro!) 

I ended my own 4 hr stroll through the market with a couple hydration tools (day beers) while watching some street performers belt out an inspired rendition of  Santana’s Oye Como Va. It was heartwarming to see so many people living in the moment, enjoying each other’s company, and dancing without inhibition. (Unfortunately, the video footage of me dancing was lost in a big fire. Sorry Bran! ❤️.) 

So slow your roll. Stop and smell the roses. And enjoy the view in your new-to-you sleeveless fur coat! (Don’t listen to the haters…it plays. 👊)

A few patrons enjoying a slow morning coffee whilst surrounded by flowers. Not bad. 

I already have this bag in blue, otherwise I’d jump on this deal!

The window of this gift shop reads “Handmade is the new future.” Oh hey, that’s me!

I wonder if they know Sweet Caroline?

 

Me JUST before my big dance number. 

Season 3, Day 5: On Commensality

Welcome back ya’ll! It’s hot here. Western Europe seems to be in a bit of a heat wave which makes the days feel like a hot yoga class and the nights feel like…a regular yoga class. I sweat pretty constantly and/but rarely pee. That’s healthy right?!  Right guys?!  Guys? 

Anyhoo… last time I wrote about the Mediterranean diet and how it is more than just eating healthy, but rather there is a social component to eating that just can’t be ignored.  “Commensality” is the practice of eating together.  Socio-cultural rules differ across the world and dictate who eats with whom, who decides the menu, who cooks, etc.. Douglas famously stated that in England “drinks are for strangers and hot meals are for close family and friends” (Douglas, 1972).  In Spain, it seems all things are for everyone, all the time. (Hey Bill, wanna get a glass of wine at Burger King at 11 am? You betcha! - That’s real.)

There’s a fair amount of research on this topic too! Eating together is linked to feelings of cohesion, sense of purpose, and happiness whereas solo dining is often linked to poor eating habits, isolation, and depression. There were many observations of this over the Covid pandemic when many were suddenly forced to eat alone.  I can also speak from personal experience that eating alone for three straight weeks in a foreign country sucks. (Una mesa para uno…[sniffle]…por favor. ☝️😢 🤦🏻‍♂️). And conversely, eating with friends and colleagues, in the exact same environment, has the complete opposite effect (Una mesa para veinte quatro por favor!!! Whooo!!!! 🙌🙌✋ 🎉🥳)

And I have to think this goes beyond just eating. In my humble opinion, most things are more enjoyable when shared with people. Going for runs - a curious behavior that many of my students seem to repeat on a daily - is much more palatable in a group. My students invited me to go on a run the other day and I accepted. (Now, I did quit halfway and walked to the bakery on the way home… but I did it with four other people, and it was glorious.)

And I’m very thankful that this group of students has picked up on this so quickly. They’ve been so inclusive, making sure all have opportunities to connect. Plus, the majority of these 24 students did not know single person prior to this trip. Now five days later, each of them has made 23 new friends (big flex). 

Over the past couple of days, we have shared many things together including meals, sweaty walks around the city (is this just me?), Flamenco shows, and most importantly, a few laughs. It’s the togetherness that makes this class work so well. Sharing experiences, no matter what the context, is what makes us human and brings us together. 

Juntos! (It’s not a swear! It means “together”…in Spanish…where we are! Come on guys, grow up.) 

Citati

While not included in the photo (thanks Garrett), I promise I was also running with the group at the beautiful Retiro Park. 

Team trek to the Royal Palace. Fun fact - the concrete kicks up the temp about a billion degrees. 

The Royal Table. The King and Queen sit at the two chairs that are slightly pulled out on both sides.

Una mesa para ciento (100)!!!! 

Garrett and I sharing a delicious bowl of ramen in Madrid. Don’t mind the unicorn light coming out of my head. Uggh, every time!

Students sitting in silence (together) at the Basilica of the Royal palace in Escorial Village. ❤️

Season 3, Day 3: An International Potluck!

James Beard said “Food is our common ground, a universal experience."   

Today we learned about the Spanish culinary experience, also known as the Mediterranean diet, and how this influences both the culture of Spain and the health of its residents.  The day started with a lecture from Professor Juan Pablo Pacheco who told us the history of the Mediterranean region including the influences of the Roman Empire (incredibly massive in its day) and the Islamic expansion (even bigger than the Roman Empire!) There is also Greek, Egyptian, Phoenician and American influence.  Essentially, we can think of the origin of the Mediterranean diet as a really long potluck party where everyone brought something different to the table. (Who brought the little smokies?! Oh, that was the Barbarians! You simply MUST get the recipe!)

The warmer, more southern regions brought wheat and fermented foods like olives, cheese, and wine (bless you!). In addition to being life of the party, this contribution was largely due to need as products like these do not last in warm environments and must be fermented in order to keep. And fortunately for us, fermented products are great for gut health! (Ok, so wine everyday…check.)  The northern regions (referred to as Barbarians during Roman times given their noon-Roman nature - not cool) brought the meat including pork and blood sausages. This is why jamon (dried ham) is such a staple in Spain today. 

Side story, during the Spanish Inquisition (1400-1800’s), in which the Catholic Monarchy strived to convert and/or expel Jewish and Muslim populations, these folks would hang large Jamon legs in their windows to avoid persecution. (Also not cool.) 

Back to the food…the Arabic regions brought the spice, flavors and rice. Hard to imagine having a decent paella without these things! And finally, the Americas brought things like tomatoes and potatoes. (Where would Spain be without its cold Gespacho soup/drink?) All in all, it’s a hell of a healthy dietary cocktail that we can now all enjoy!

After class, we trekked over to the vibrant neighborhood known as La Latina to visit their local food market. Most major neighborhoods in Madrid have a market that is filled with all of your major staples, including your meats, fruits and veggies, dry goods, seafood, sweets, and probably a kitchen sink (sorry no Mac ‘n Cheese Bran ❤️). While there, our guide Ernesto, encouraged us to try his favorite fruit which is known as a Nispero. This little fella is just bursting with flavor and can be described as a cross between a peach and a plum? (Big fan right here!)

We ended our day with a cooking class where we made a cold Gazpacho soup (I seriously don’t know if it’s a soup or a drink), Spanish tortilla (like a pan fried egg bake), Spanish paella (MVP!), and an almond flour cake for dessert. In the course of two hours, we made an entire meal for 25 people and were able to share it together. My students worked so well together, and we didn’t burn the place down! (You can nominate me for teacher of the year anytime.)

A big takeaway from today is that the Mediterranean diet is not so much a diet but more of a lifestyle. It’s certainly more than chugging gallons of olive oil and wine. (Sorry team!) The Mediterranean way of life is about eating the foods that are in season and now native to this region, sharing them with friends, getting outside, and moving around periodically. Fairly easy to do in Madrid but how one follows this lifestyle in the U.S. is not an easy answer, and what this team will wrestle with for the next two weeks. Cooking a meal with family and friends is a good small step in the right direction. I’ll bring the wine…you bring the lil smokies. 👊

Juan Pablo dropping knowledge on Spanish paella and its ingredients. Saffron spice (pistol of the flower) is more expensive than gold by weight.  Rabbits, however, are quite inexpensive and a common ingredient. Sorry lil buddy.

I spent the afternoon grading student’s blogs over a tasty Nispero fruit. Ok, and a beer…you caught me. Don’t judge me!

Pretty soon this will be in Gazpacho form. Seriously, is it a soup or is it a drink?! Someone tell me!!!

 An A+ meal created by an All Star team. (Chef’s kiss)

Season 3, Day 1: Revenge of the Jet Leg

Welcome back everyone (both of you)! I’m back in Spain to teach my class on Understanding Determinants of Health and Wellbeing for the third time folks. Our journey again begins in the capital of Madrid. After a few weeks of rain, Madrid has returned to her dry, warm nature. Flowers are in full bloom and the temp is in the mid 80’s…certainly warm enough to cook you in the sun but a lovely temperature as soon as you find that perfect table in the shade.

Day 1 of this adventure is all about beating jet leg, in any way that you can. And it can be a marathon! Only the strong survive!! Our 8 hr flight left Chicago at 5 PM and arrived in Madrid at 8 AM. If you’re lucky, you might catch a few Zzz’s on the plane, but this is not a given. I tried taking some melatonin for the first time, which made me drowsy, but my seat - located conveniently in front of the restroom - made sleep an impossible challenge. (Seriously dude, you’ve gone to the bathroom 4 times. Enough.) Subsequently, in place of sleep, I ended up binge watching old Star Wars movies. (Is Episode III: Revenge of the Sith the best one?! Maybe a good sign for this blog?)

The key to beating jet lag is to stay awake as late as you can on day one. This means staying busy, staying outside, staying hydrated, and avoiding chairs, beds, and all forms of relaxation as much as you can. Not an easy feat but I am fortunate this year to have a teaching assistant accompanying me on this trip! Garrett is a doctoral student in my lab and so far seems to be a more than capable space travel companion. In our quest to stay awake, Garrett and I bravely armed ourselves with a collection of hydration tools (day beers) and wondered the city for several hours. And by God it worked!  We made it to our 8 PM Welcome dinner with the team and blew up the Death Star! A one in a million shot kid!  (Ok maybe I went over board there but we did make dinner damn it!) 

And dinner was lovely! A three course meal with way too much food for our group of 25. The first course of appetizers included Russian salad (which is essentially potato salad with tuna), fried calamari (tasted like chicken) bread with olive oil and vinegar, and patatas bravas (always a fan favorite). I had the steak for my entrée while Garrett bravely attacked the squid. (We almost lost him.)  Dessert options included Greek yogurt with a raspberry sorbet (money), an apple cinnamon strudel, or cheese cake. A glass of white wine (vino blanco) to wash it all down…and I’m back fighting the Death Star!!!

 I need sleep. More adventures tomorrow…

“These are not the droids you’re looking for.”

In the war room/hotel wine cellar for Day 1 Orientation. 

Enjoying a couple light sabers and a lovely day in Madrid.