Valencia Day 12: Paella!!!

Among other things, Valencia is known for its food. Paella is the signature dish. Today we had a great opportunity to learn how to cook paella from a MasterChef. 

This is one of the most fun experiences I’ve had here in Spain. We started the class by going to the market, which was right across the street. This place was amazing. Seasonal fruits and vegetables, olives, beans, meats, and seafood of the freshest variety. In the United States, the food in this market would’ve been marked up to the point that they might only be accessible to those with extra cash to burn. This is not the case in Spain. Fruits and vegetables are heavily subsidized by the government making them accessible to all. And Spaniards take pride in knowing where their food comes from and choosing the freshest product. Seafood, rabbit, and chicken are presented as a whole animal. This is because you can only choose fresh protein by looking into its eyes and seeing the color of the head.  It scares me that I did not know how to select a fresh fish up until today. 

Onions are a major debate in Spain. It is said that some families “raise their children with onions” and others “raise their children without onions.” There’s no in between.

$1.50 for 2.2 lbs of yummy nectarine goodness

👀 “So fresh and so clean!” - OutKast

Our instructor then patiently taught us how to make three dishes: a Spanish omelette as a starter, traditional paella as the main meal, and an orange cinnamon, dessert cake.

A Spanish omelet is a combination of egg, potatoes, and onions cooked in a fry pan. 

We learned it is traditional to eat and drink as you cook. Not to be left out, we followed suit and enjoyed some sangria, jamon, and crackers while we cooked. We learned that traditional Valencia’s paella is not actually called paella but rather “community rice” or “rice with things.” And while many think paella must include seafood, Valencians would never desecrate the dish with seafood. Chicken, rabbit, and snails (gross) are the only acceptable proteins to include! Paella was born as peasant food and was made of ingredients most available. 

The pan we cooked in was literally the size of a saucer sled. The reason for this is paella must never be more than one inch deep and if you are going to cook for your whole family, you better have one big pan. We learned that the rice must be short rice in order to absorb all of the water and flavor. The rice must also be a yellow color, ideally achieved with saffron ($$$) or food coloring. But maybe the most fun part of this experience was burning rosemary in order to create a smoky, Rosemary flavor. 

Cook your chicken first in olive oil, then your snap peas. 

Add spices and water and let it simmer. When ready, add the rice so that it can soak up all the juices.

Burn the rosemary on the fire below the pan for the smoky sensation.

The final product.

When it was all set and done, we sat and enjoyed our delicious meal together. We engaged in conversation and laughed about the many mistakes that we made. It’s amazing how the act of cooking can bring people together. Today, we felt like true Spaniards. 

Valencia Day 11: The Holy Grail

Today was the Holy Grail. I don’t mean this figuratively. I mean we saw THE HOLY GRAIL people!! (A professor who seeks the Holy Grail…where have I heard this story before?)  

Dun, dun, dun….dun, dun, dun…dun, dun, dun, duuuunn…

dun, dun, dun, dun, duuun!!!

Guided by our local tour guide, Julio, we explored old town Valencia. The history here is difficult for this American to fathom. Some of the architecture dates back to the 11th century. Churches are flanked with gargoyles and images of witchcraft. If you’re wondering whether any of those old gargoyles ever break and fall off of these buildings, the answer is yes! It turns out this is the precise reason that they moved bull fights, which also originated in Valencia, out of the center city. A gargoyle actually fell and killed 12 people. 

Julio down by the church that has a weird history of a cannabalistic priest.  True story. Not a good name for a Simon & Garfunkel song. 

Creepy little buggers. 

We learned of the origin of the term bankruptcy (when a banker would break a table as a warning to those who couldn’t pay) and the mafia (a Spanish invention later adopted by the Italians). And a weird story about a priest who was a cannibal (ask Julio). 

The highlight of the tour was a visit to the Valencia Cathedral, a church that took 500 years to build and is home of the Holy Grail. This church (which is a collection of many chapels) is nothing short of incredible.  Every inch of the interior is a masterpiece in its own.  And it turns out what we see on display is only part of the grail (the dark part is original). The actual grail was unfortunately broken when a priest raised it above his head and dropped it during mass.  (Insert Homer Simpson yelling “Doh!”) It is said the priest died “of natural causes “ only a few days after this occurred. 

Just, wow. 

There she is. THG. 

The main chapel of the Cathedral. 

After “class” I visited the church of San Nicolas (you might know him by his red suit and jolly disposition).  This is a short walk from the cathedral and was described to me as “The Sistine Chapel” of Spain. Upon entry (11 euro), it’s easy to see why. The architecture is gothic but the decoration, which literally covers every cm (metric system baby) of wall and ceiling is baroque which must translate to “over the top”. The audio tour is incredibly well done. In it, the narrator tells the origin story of St. Nick in which he gives gifts of gold, always without being seen. (Rudolph seems to have been left out of this tale unfortunately.) Collectively, I feel like I have seen two of the most impressive sights of my life, in just one day. And I’m very grateful. 

The origin story of St. Nick (on right discretely pushing gold through a small hole in the wall).

Come for the goth, stay for the baroque. 

I close with today’s fun lesson of the day. Valencians do not speak Spanish. They speak Valencian, a language I’m told is very difficult to learn and is actually more similar to French. Valencians are forgiving of foreigners for not speaking the native language (thank goodness), but are less forgiving of Spaniards. In fact, they may refuse to speak to a Spaniard, out of spite, if they do not engage in Valencian conversation. One of our guides, Lluis, a local who understands Valencian but cannot speak it, was compared to a dog (understands but can’t speak) by an elder native Valencian (ouch). Speaking the language is a point of great pride, especially considering it was suppressed during the previous Spanish dictatorship. 

An Agua de Valencia (OJ, gin, vodka, champagne) will wet your whistle on a warm day. 

València Day 10: Bullet to the Beach

Madrid is the capital and the largest city (3 million) in Spain. Located directly in the center of Spain, Madrid is considered to be the fastest paced and most stressed city in the country. Today, we depart Madrid for the second stop on our journey…Valencia. By contrast, Valencia is a smaller city (800,000) located on the east coast. Valencia is known for its seafood, beaches, and more relaxed style of living. (Honestly, I felt Madrid was pretty liaise fair!)

The two hour route from Madrid to Valencia. 

We were fortunate to take a bus to the train station, which was very helpful for our large group. We arrived at the train station  one hour prior to departure which turned out to be more than enough time. Similar to an airport, we put our luggage through a security screener. However, no need to remove your shoes or computers here!  Next task is to find which our train via (gate). This is announced only a few minutes before departure which can be stressful. Once the announcement is made, you navigate all of your luggage to your car. Quick tip: If you have a large luggage bag, you will likely be charged extra (10 euro per bag) so it is helpful to pack lighter if traveling by train. There is overhead storage and some space for large bags but not much. 

The train station. Feel free to keep your shoes on.

Our chariot awaits.

Busted taking a bad photo of the train car. 

The high speed train system connects Madrid to all major cities in the country, a point of pride among Madrilenos. The train is clean, smooth, and of course fast! The ride is only slightly more bumpy than a flight.  There are restrooms and free WiFi. No stewards bringing you snacks but there is a coffee bar and vending machines.  Surprisingly no seat belts considering the rocket style speed of this baby! You can move about from car to car and probably play out your favorite James Bond chase scene (I’m guessing, these guys are cool). 

Ooooh…cookies!

Large windows create an airy feeling and allow for good views of the landscape. The landscape on our journey is very pretty. Alternating between flat plains and rolling hills, the terrain is peppered with flowers, olive trees, and of course vineyard vines. Similar to Iowa, there are a number of large windmills. This makes me miss home. Unlike Iowa, there are very few private cars or semi trucks, which I suppose is the point of having such a public transit system. 

While here in Valencia, we will stay in a dorm on the University campus, which is located conveniently one block away from the beach. The dorm comes complete with a gym, restaurant, and pool. I haven’t slept in a dorm room for nearly 25 years. They don’t make them like they used to. 

Resa Pentacona. The beach is that way >>>

This’ll do…I guess. 

The backyard isn’t too shabby. 

Madrid Day 9: Learning to be…

Our last day in Madrid. Nine days is a good amount of time here. Long enough to really experience the city. Long enough to appreciate it. 

We began the day visiting Fundacion Diagrama, a publicly funded social support program for vulnerable individuals. They work to provide education, social skills, and employment training for low-income pops, individuals with disabilities, victims of sexual crimes, troubled youth, and some immigrants populations. Their primary focus is to reeducate and reintegrate these individuals back in the society. Essentially a second chance opportunity for those who need it the most. For immigrant populations, there is even a pathway to citizenship. The instructor, a psychologist, summarized their purpose beautifully… “People who come to us are just learning to be.”

And guess what, they have pretty good evidence that these programs work.  I would love to see our criminal justice, immigration, and social support systems follow the similar model where the goal is rehabilitation. 

I spent my second half of the day at the Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum which completes the Golden Circle of Art in Madrid (along with the Prado and Sofia Reina) for me! And I think I’ve saved the best for last. Many of the most popular artists of all time are featured here, including Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, Matisse, Homer, and Picasso. I share a few of my favorites below, but the collection is massive.

Sundown at Yosemite, Bierstadt, 1863

Woman with a Parasol in a garden, Renoir, 1875

The Green Dancer, Degas, 1877

Morning, Inness, 1878

Les Vessenots, Van Gogh, 1890

Mata Mua, Gauguin, 1892

Factory in the Moonlight, Luce, 1892

Phew!! That was a lot! It’s 2 pm and time for lunch. The menu del dia (a limited menu lunch deal offered at most restaurants) at the museum looks incredible so I opt for that. My first course was a fried egg on top of a bed of ratatouille. Great movie and a great dish! Second course, the most delicious beef and potatoes I’ve ever had. Seasonal fruit for dessert (should have had the espresso…blarg!) and a glass of white wine to wash it down. This is my favorite meal in Spain so far. Total cost was $24 which is high but worth it. Quick tip: If you order water in Spain, they will likely bring you a bottle of water which they will charge you for (especially if they suspect you as a tourist).  If you want free tap water, which is of good quality, you must say Vaso de Agua. 

Tomorrow we board the bullet train for Valencia and the second half of our trip. I’m looking forward to a change of scenery. And a few new adventures. Adios Madrid!

Madrid Day 8: “Well” designed

I started my morning with great intentions. A planned 30 minute run around El Retiro Park turned into me getting lost for two hours at more of a leisurely pace. Well not so much lost but…“wandering with intention.” The old saying…“All who wonder are not lost” rings a bit more true with me today. 

The real reason I stopped running was due to a lower leg muscle strain caused by the excessive amount of walking I’ve been doing here. I’ve never had to be concerned about getting too much activity in a day. I feel like I’m upside down!!

A few pictures of the many features at El Retiro Park are below. This place is magical. The park offers something for everyone including separate exercise facilities for young adults and older adults. Places to relax and read. And multiple coffee/snack/beer vendors for socializing. 

A climbing feature for those under 10 years. 

Hey we could get a six pack of bee…soda!

The fallen angel fountain. (Boy I love fountains!)  Urban legend has it this was created as an homage to Lucifer. Its elevation (666 ft) doesn’t help to dispel the myth. (Most of Madrid is actually at this elevation.)

Much like American parks, there are active spaces for infants and young children. Interestingly, Spanish parks have signs that clearly indicate that children’s health is the parent’s responsibility. Any issues noted with the equipment should be reported by calling a number. 

Importantly, the park also serves the city’s green climate needs by helping reduce carbon output. The translation of the sign below is rough but you get the gist. The point is the city thoughtfully designed this park and situated it immediately next to the heart of the city.

Mmmm, smell that clean air!

My lesson for today is on the power of the environment.  A lesson that has gradually been building over the past few days. Health behavior nerds will know that the social cognitive theory suggests our health behaviors are strongly influenced by our environment. It’s easy to talk about this theory, but until you change out your current environment for a completely new one,  it’s difficult to know how powerful our surroundings influence our day to day. I find myself less likely to grab quick fast food or stay in and watch TV. (Mostly because everything’s in Spanish.) Conversely, when everyone around me is constantly outside, walking and socializing, I find myself wanting to do the same. And I’ll be honest, the constant site of people relaxing with a cigarette outside has an impact too. (I can feel your judgment people…let’s put that aside shall we?) But it’s true! If no one smoked here, I wouldn’t think twice about it. 

I stumbled upon this scene on a walk at lunchtime. These people were having lunch, taking turns singing, and just enjoying the day. This fella has some pipes on him!

So what’s the real lesson here? Nothing groundbreaking really, just a vivid reminder to me on the importance of thoughtfully designing our environments with clear intentions in mind. Everything from the kitchen, to the workspace, to the school, to the city, to the state.  Good design matters. 

Madrid Day 7: Masterpieces

Today is Sunday, and I’ve now been here a week. I’m enjoying my time but miss the family quite a bit. Oliver played a basketball tournament that I really wish I could’ve attended. Sounds like he played great, which is weird given I wasn’t there to coach him! JK 😉 Great job buddy!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️

This morning I visited Museo Reina Sofia, a 20th century Spanish museum that houses a large collection of works by Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, and others. Compared to the Prado, which houses European art from the 12th century up to the 20th century, I found the modern/contemporary art of the Reina Sophia to be much more enjoyable. Lo siento, Senor Goya! 

I opted for the digital audio tour for 4 euro, which made the experience even better. Picasso’s massive 1937 masterpiece known as Guernica is the star of the show. Picasso created the painting in response to a bombing in Guernica, Spain which was conducted by Nazi Germany and Italian fascists, at the request of Spanish nationalists. It is a powerful symbol of anti-war and anti-fascism. 

There are not words. 

Other works by Picasso can be seen below:

Woman in Blue, 1901

Fruit Bowl, 1910. It said that Picasso started with an image and then deconstructed it piece by piece creating the illusion of a collage. Is that an apricot? 

And a few by Salvador Dali…

Figure at the window, 1925

The Great Masterbator, 1929. If you consider the point at the bottom as a nose, you can actually see Dali’s face (looking down) in this painting. He struggled mightily with his own sexual identity which is represented in many ways here. 

I then went out to the garden and came across a very interesting piece by the only American artist, I’ve seen here. Dan Graham was born in Urbana, IL and created Dhaka Pavilion for the Reina. I took the photo below myself. The reflective materials actually put you in the piece. 

Hey, that’s me! 

We capped the day with a visit to Santiago Barnabeau Estadium which is the home of the Real Madrid soccer team. The game visit was a bit of a bust as they are currently upgrading the facility (to the tune of $1 billion) and surprisingly denied my request to play a game on the pitch.  Lame! But we did see the plans for the stadium and the many, many, many trophies this club has won. 

For just $1 Billion, you can have one too!

I love this. Many international teams have team motto’s like this. 

Sort of looks like my trophy case at home. 

Hype video, Spain style.