S2D?: Reverse Culture Shock

This year I was very fortunate to spend five weeks abroad in Spain and France. This amount of time is long enough to throw your circadian rhythms completely out of whack. Upon my return, I’ve found myself falling asleep on the couch at 4 PM and waking up bright eyed and bushy tailed at 4 AM, much to the dismay of my wife who for some reason is not interested in waking up in complete darkness. ;)

 And I think it’s long enough for your gut to adjust to new food exposures. I’m not sure I would say I absolutely love the food and cuisine in Spain in France. Both are a bit more bland than what I’m used to. Certainly much less spice making for some really strong and severe Mexican food cravings! But with the agricultural regulations employed in Europe, there’s something different about how food impacts your belly. Pasta doesn’t seem to create this same sense of bloating that I would get in the states. Milk tastes much milkier in Europe but doesn’t cause distress.  And upon my return home, I’ve had a general sense of G.I. uneasiness. I can’t exactly pinpoint what causes it, but I’ve taken more Tums in the last two weeks then I care to admit.

But this year, I’ve experienced something different up upon returning home. People have asked me if I’m excited to be home and I know the socially correct response is to emphatically say YES and waive an American flag high in the air!!  And there was indeed an initial sense of euphoria upon returning home. I had already reconnected with my family for the past two weeks in France, which was the biggest thing I missed because THAT is home.  But I was also very excited to sleep in my bed, to see my dog, to get back on my bike, and to see friends. And that lasted a couple days. And then something changed. 

For the past week or so (one week after returning), I’ve felt very uneasy mentally. Anxious. Irritable.  Overwhelmed. Lonely. Sad even. And this has not gone unnoticed by those close to me. My wife called me out on this yesterday when she said “You don’t seem happy. You don’t seem like you are here.” And she’s right (as usual). In my brain, I’ve been wondering and ruminating about these feelings.  But not sharing these ideas with others because I don’t want to bring anyone down.  Frustrated at some things that are different than before. Things that seem like they could be better here but aren’t. (I’m looking at you fancy trains!)  In the lowest moments, not feeling like I know my place. Even rethinking my career and overall purpose in life. 

Now I know I experienced a bit of this last year, but not nearly to this degree.  And after A LOT of thought and some research….I’ve come to a conclusion. I think what I’m experiencing is Reverse culture shock (https://2009-2017.state.gov/m/fsi/tc/c55963.htm). It turns out this is fairly common for people who’ve been abroad for a period of time. And after feeling what I’ve felt for the past few days, there is a lot of comfort in knowing this. 

Reverse culture shock is accompanied by most of the symptoms I’ve described before. For some people, it lasts a few days or weeks, and for others it can last months. I’m really hoping I fall in the “days-weeks” camp because it’s no picnic. In terms of why I’m feeling this way this year, I think a lot of it has to do with how much the United States has changed over the past year and how different this country looks compared to the countries I visited. First and foremost, my life’s work as a professor and scientist is being challenged every day under this new administration. Truth seekers (e.g., scientists, journalists, activists) are being suppressed. Immigrants are being treated with cruelty. This is a stark contrast. In my five weeks abroad, I felt like a guest being welcomed into somebody’s home. The people in Spain and France were so kind and warm. (The idea that the French are cold to Americans is a myth.) And I know those people exist here too but the folks in charge right now don’t seem to share this sentiment which is disheartening. And there are other things, but I won’t bore you with the details.

So why post about all this stuff? Well, through my research, I learned one of the best ways to get through these feelings is to blog about it. (Hey, I have blog!!)  That’s the selfish reason. The less selfish reason is to share this with others who might be experiencing similar feelings and let them know that these are normal and common feelings. We talk a lot about culture shock that can occur when visiting a new and different place, but I never once considered the idea of reverse culture shock that comes from returning home. 

And writing this blog out actually did help. I’m not hoping to go back to the person that I was prior to traveling abroad. Traveling fundamentally changes your perspective in a great way. I don’t want to unsee things. But I do want to have the ability to contextualize my feelings. I spent five weeks looking for all the amazing things in another country. I came back comparing that experience to what things are like here and started looking for the things that were missing here. I want to get back to looking for the beautiful things that exist here, at home. So that’s my focus right now.  And this is a much better thing to think about. 

My 45th birthday celebration with close family and friends. 

Why yes I do have a mustache now, thank you for noticing! 

Otis. Never more than five feet away. 

                                          

Home. No matter where I am. 

S2,D18: Adios Amigos

We’re at the end of the road and my students are off on their flights back home. A good time to reflect on how far we’ve come. To recap, I led 20 students to Spain in the pursuit of understanding what makes Spain so darn healthy. And I’ve come to a new conclusion this year that seems so obvious. The factors that determine one’s “healthiness”overlap directly with the factors that determine one’s “happiness”. 

For years, I’ve followed the research of Dr. Robert Lustig who has written a book on the four C’s of happiness (https://robertlustig.com/4cs/). Coping, cooking, contributing and connecting. Lustig’s research shows these four things result in lasting feelings of happiness as opposed to short-term feelings of pleasure that come from things like sex, drugs, money, and material gain. And there’s physiological evidence to support this work. When I made this connection, a light turned on. Let’s dive in.

Coping. Check! This is a low hanging fruit and something we tend to overly focus on in western cultures. Coping is about self-care with sleeping, physical activity, and stress management as examples of coping. In Spain, both the physical environment and culture make it easier for one to achieve these health behaviors on a regular basis.

Cooking. Check! As we’ve discussed, cooking with friends and families is a regular occurrence in Spain. And the types of foods that are cooked and consumed tend to follow the Mediterranean diet, which is uber-healthy. So I guess double check!

Contributing. Check! Spanish government is more socialist than many countries. Taxes are higher but they go towards supporting resources that are available to all including fancy trains, excellent schools, and public art, which just makes the whole journey so beautiful.The social safety net is very strong, resulting in fewer people falling through the cracks. And there’s just a general sense that giving to others is the right thing to do here. “A rising tide lifts all boats” and all that. 

Connecting. Triple Check! Spain is a uniquely social place and is literally built on the idea that humans need to connect often and deeply. Both the physical environment and culture lend themselves to supporting social cohesion and social capital. 

Over the past 18 days, my class has experienced all four of these things in abundance. We’ve been extremely physically active, mostly due to the walkable environment. I’m averaging 17,000 steps/day and haven’t so much as sniffed a gym in Spain.We’ve cooked together and shared many meals together. We’ve supported each other. And we’ve connected.

Aayusha, Ava, Alyssa, Claire, Emma, Ellie, Elly, Eli, Ella, Hallie, Maisy, Molly, Kat, Leah, Lexi, Lily, Lexi, Paige, Tiffany, and Sam…20 amazing students who I now consider friends. And that’s what this experience (and life?) is all about, isn’t it?  The relationships you build. I can’t wait to see what they do to make this world a healthier and happier place. 

I hope it involves little boats. And tapas. And Tinto de Veranos. ;) 

If little boats don’t bring your stress down, I don’t know what will!

We hiked TWO mountains together on this trip…take that nature!

We cooked ourselves some paella. A little crunchy, but damn delicious!

Connection. ❤️🇪🇸

S2, D17: God’s Architect

 If you are in Barcelona for more than 5 minutes, there’s a solid chance you’re going to hear the name Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi was a designer, an architect, and a very proud Catalan. Gaudi is likely the most famous architect in Spanish history and his presence can be felt in many areas of Barcelona. He is most widely known for his work designing Sagrada Familia, which is the most widely visited church in the world. Our team had the opportunity to visit multiple Gaudi sites and from my rudimentary perspective, it’s easy to understand why he is so revered here. He even earned the name “God’s architect” which…you know…is pretty good I suppose. 

Our first visit was to a place called Park Güell. This is actually more of a garden than a park. It was originally designed to be a neighborhood full of homes, but this plan flopped and didn’t come to fruition. Today the park is a combination of flowers and structures designed by Gaudi. What makes his work so interesting as his focus on including natural elements into his designs. Gaudi felt that nature was perfect and  if he could design anything that resembled nature (e.g. a snail shell, an ocean wave, a tornado, etc…) then he was in a good place. I can get behind the school of thought. 

Next, we visited Sagrada Familia. This place is simply amazing. It’s a cathedral that has been under construction for over 100 years. (And I thought it took the city too long to fix that pot hole in front of my house!) The detail of Gaudi’s work is almost over overwhelming. Scratch that, it’s over overwhelming… but in the most amazing way. The entire façade of the church is covered in natural elements, including bugs, flowers, fruit, stars, etc. (I think I caught a bowl of broccoli in there somewhere .) There’s symbolism and storytelling embedded in his work. And at the end of it, you wonder how this guy had the time to think of these things and turn those ideas into reality. Turns out he never married and was a bit of a workaholic until his untimely death. In the last year of his life, he actually moved into Sagrada Familia. On one of his daily walks he was hit by a tram and died a few days later. An unfortunate ending, but his work continues as Sagrada was picked up by other architects and is now scheduled to be completed by 2033.

Gaudi’s work is like something I’ve never seen before. He was an artist in every sense of the word. But he was also extremely progressive and considerate. He designed his structures to be environmentally sustainable, and even thought about how his structures could handle rainfall and conserve water for the people living in the area. He was clever.  Sagrada has different colored stained glass windows on the east and west sides of the building. So when you enter the building in the morning, the experience is entirely different than an afternoon visit. 

We were also fortunate to hear from a local professor, Dr. Oriel Marquet on Barcelona’s urban planning strategies and how they influence the hair health of Barcelonians. In many ways, it feels like Gaudi’s forward thinking design has had a ripple effect on the design of the city. Barcelona is considered one of the most walkable cities in the world. They have streets that accommodate cars, bikes and buses. They have led the world in implementing super blocks which limit car travel in certain neighborhoods with intention of supporting ability. They even have policies to reduce noise pollution, which helps ensure all residents are able to get their beauty sleep. 

Collectively, my impression of Barcelona is that it is a very well design city. It’s a city that is designed to ensure the people are well. And seeing this gives people like me, who are in the business of promoting wellness, a lot of of hope. When buildings and cities are designed properly, it ensures all inhabitants have access to health supporting resources. And this makes the healthy choice the easy choice. 

The crew posing in the Market at Park Guell. That’s a lot of mosaics!

More from Park Guell.  Looks like a gingerbread house right?

Casa Bottlo…notice the skeletal pieces on the facade. 

Casa Vicens. Very cubie. Makes me think of Tetris.

Sagrada Familia. It’s a lot bigger in person.

This is the orange/red light that you feel in the evenings. This is meant to depict the season of fall.

The three-dimensional crosses on the church were designed to emphasize the idea that God lives in all directions.

Dr. Marquet dropping some knowledge on young minds. 

S2,D16: Markets = Life

 Today we had class followed by a visit to a local market. Class for this experience are nothing like the classes I hold while at the university in a typical semester. Rather than me lecturing on while students do their best to feign some level of interest, classes here are simple and to the point. I do not have a text book or PowerPoint slides. Just a simple agenda of topics to discuss. The city is our textbook. Discussions revolve around our observations and give students an opportunity to reflect on those observations. We focus on learning.  And I don’t have to drag it out of them! Perhaps it’s because they’re more interested in the conversation we are having. I’m learning it’s also partly due to their comfort level with me and their peers. Students are willing to put themselves out there which is wonderful to see. I love seeing these kids come out of their shells.  This all makes me wonder how I can bring some of this back to my typical classes. This is something I’ll be considering on the long flight home. Tapas during class perhaps?! 

Our visit to the market was wonderful. There are two kinds of markets in Spain. There are markets that locals visit to purchase the foods they need to take home and prepare meals. The second type of market is the more commercialized version, tailored to the desires of tourists. These markets tend to have takeaway options, but also include full restaurants and bars embedded within. Their are places to sit and enjoy the delicacies you find. Both are lovely. We visited the old style market and were introduced to the experience by a local tour guide named Anna. 

We learned that markets are the heart and soul of cities in Spain. This is where the life is she said. “If you want to understand a city in Spain, visit the market and the cemetery.” I thought this was strange at first, but there’s a lot of truth to it. Life and death. Local markets are filled with vendors who are experts in their fields. They get to know their customers on a first name basis and often times hold demonstrations and cooking classes on the weekends for folks who don’t know how to use the products they’re selling.  In Spain, markets include everything from fresh fruits and vegetables, to fresh seafood, to olives, to cured meats, and even sweets for dessert.

We had the opportunity to taste some of the local cheeses, olives, and cured meats at a local market.  We ended our tour by going to a local restaurant that is supplied by this market. The specific type of restaurant we visited is something called a Pinxto Restaurant, which is unique to the Barcelona area. Pinxto’s are like little snacks on skewers that you might get on the go. They vary but could include things like a slice of fresh bread, topped with a local with cheese, olives, and tomatoes. Or something more savory. Usually a person will go and grab two or three pixto’s and pair it with a glass of wine, beer or cold beverage. Brilliant! 

To round out my market experience, I went to La Boqueria market which has been rated as the best market in the world. This market used to be for locals, but has slowly transitioned to a market for tourists. Don’t tell the locals, but I friggin love it! It is indeed alive and full of an extremely diverse group of people.  Today for lunch, I had a steak skewer, an empanada, and a cup of the most amazing sliced mango I’ve ever had. All for about €10. Local, delicious, and inexpensive. What’s not to like?!

Inside of the old-school market. Very nice and relaxed. 

Many markets have little chapels inside them. Maybe to protect the food?

The façade of this market was designed to depict the chaos and life that lives within the market.

Pinxto is Spanish for “delicious on-the-go snack”. That’s probably not true…but it should be. 

La Boqueria…you got your fruits and veggies…

You got your fishes…

And of course you got your sardines and spices…?

S2, D14: Father’s Day Off

 I wasn’t going to post anything today. I had the day off today.  It’s also Father’s Day. And for the second year in a row, I’m without my wife and two kids. A streak I’m not all that proud of.  I spent most of the day wondering if my being away from my family three weeks a year is worth it.  And one of my students tonight actually asked me that very question. In that moment, I blurted out “I don’t know”…and then immediately regretted saying it. 

On the one hand, this is a great gig. I get to live in two of the most beautiful cities in the world and experience all that they have to offer…while also being paid! (Cue the violin right?) This is also one of the most rewarding professional experiences of my career. Academia is rife with feelings of imposter syndrome. You’re constantly surrounded by brilliant people at all times and it can be humbling. But in this role, I feel like I’m doing what I’m supposed to be doing and that I’m pretty good at it.  I feel like I’m having a positive impact. I can see lights turning on within these students that will never turn off. 

But on the other, I do all those things without MY crew. Tonight my son needed me and all I could offer was a few words over the phone. I’m missing ball games, movie nights, and goofy conversations that I’m not going to get back.  It’s a mind job of the Nth degree. I hate that I have to leave them to do this. 

But tonight, this amazing group of students took it upon themselves to invite me to dinner and celebrate my Father’s Day. All 20 of them.  They bought me a Coke with my name on it, made me a card with handwritten notes, and even paid for my dinner. It was too much. The notes are kind and genuine.  I’ve written before that Sundays are for family in Spain. And while I’m not with MY family (and these students are not with their fathers), I so appreciate spending this Father’s Day with this new family we’ve created. 

S2, S12: Exercise & Sport

We are in Barcelona and we’ve kept busy! One day one, we visited the Olympic Village and Museum of Barcelona. The Olympics were held here in 1992 making me the only person in this group who actually members watching the Barcelona Olympics. Whatever.  For those of you old/cool enough to remember, this is the Olympics to feature the dream team, arguably the greatest basketball team ever. assembled. That’s right Gen Z!!  Importantly, this was a time in which Spain had been freed of the fascist government of General Franco and was ready to demonstrate their new fancy democracy to the world. In an effort to demonstrate their inclusive culture, the Barcelona Olympics was the first to hold the Paralympics and featured a Paralympic archer who shot an arrow to light the torch. The Barcelona Olympics was also the first international event to ban smoking outdoors, which is not a small thing in a country like Spain, where you smoke ‘em if you got ‘em. 

While many cities that host the Olympics tend to overspend their budget by building massive facilities that sometimes go unused following the event (Qatar, cough, cough) Barcelona decided to retrofit an existing early 1900’s facility to host their event. The stadium is now is the temporary home of the Barcelona football club and hosts many other concerts and sporting events. It’s also now  home to one of the most amazing gardens I have ever seen. It’s like a jungle! Ironically, Guns N’ Roses just held a concert here last week…Welcome to the Jungle indeed! 

In the evening, we were fortunate to go on a two hour biking tour of the El Born neighborhood and the iconic Barceloneta beach area. Those who know me know this is one of my most favorite activities. It’s the best way to see a city in my opinion. It’s also a great way to lose a student so this brought me a bit of anxiety. (Keep your hands on the wheel Ellie!!) This would not have been possible in Madrid. While Madrid is a very walkable city, it is definitely not bike friendly. Well, Madrid streets resemble wide sidewalks, Barcelona Streets include lanes for cars, buses, bikes and sometime trams! It’s an urban planer’s dream. After our bike ride, we felt it best to partake in beach festivities and enjoyed a pitcher of deliciousness that combined some sort of mango juice with cava, which is the Spanish version of champagne. Magic in a glass after a hot ride.

On day two, we took a day trip to the Santa Maria Mountserat Montasery. This is considered to be one of the most important areas of the entire Catalonian region as it is the site in which a statue of the Virgin of Montserrat was found in 880 (not a typo).  In 1025, the monastery was founded which still is active today with about 70 monks living in the abbey. Catalonians are a proud people who speak their own language (Catalan) that combines Spanish, French and Italian. Many Catalonians would prefer to separate themselves from Spain as they feel they could easily sustain themselves. There is an ongoing beef here that likely will not be resolved anytime soon. 

After a 3 to 4 mile hike around the region, we stopped for lunch at a nearby restaurant. This was not any restaurant but rather a picturesque farmhouse located on an olive farm. This is a place you would see on the movies. I wasn’t sure if I was in Spain or but the Italian countryside.  We were presented with multiple Mediterranean courses which included fresh vegetables, delicious breads, cured meats, paella, crème brûlée for dessert, and espresso of course. 

One might think after a full day of hiking in the sun and filling our bellies to the brim, these kids would sleep on the hour long bus ride back home. One would be wrong! The students decided to serenade us by singing the entire catalog of the a cappella soundtrack from the movie Pitch Perfect. This is a unique group of humans. They all seem to enjoy each other’s company and genuinely care for each other. As Ice Cube would say, today was a good day.

On the front steps of Olympic Stadium. “Do you know where you are?!? You’re in the jungle baby!!”

The Olympic torches used to transfer the flame for the Games.

The Stadium Olympic torch lit by a Paralympic archer in ‘92. Where did the flaming arrow land?

The W hotel on the Barconelets beach. Looks like a sailboat eh?

The statue of the Virgin from 880. People were smaller then. 

The president of FC Barcelona just so happened to be at the monastery celebrating Barcelona’s 125th anniversary. It’s common for fans to walk 46 km from Barcelona to this annual festivity.

One of the many crosses hung on outlooks in the region. 

Students enjoying a hard earned lunch at Masia Vinyanova. This place is just magical. 

 

S2, D8: Healthcare for all

Today we visited a private hospital in Madrid and were lucky to hear from Dr Cardinal Fernandez Pablo, a clinician and Director research at a local university. Our objective was to learn more about the Spanish healthcare system, and how it differs from the system we have at home. The differences are dark and the outcomes are not surprising.

The United States is the only country in the world who uses a private market based system where individuals receive care based on who can afford it. I’ll say it again…we are the ONLY country that files this system.  Spain follows joins Denmark and other Nordic countries that use a Beveridge model for health care is publicly available and funded through taxes. There is a third model that France, Germany, and a few other countries use called the Bismarck model, which is paid for employees and employees, insurance is required, and hospitals are private but highly regulated. 

Spain has both public and private hospitals. Everybody has access to the public system. Public hospitals Offer all essential treatments, but they can’t take a while to get into. If you have minor issues and you want to be seen quickly, your best bet is to go to a private hospital. The cost for private hospitals is somewhere around €50 per month. 

Spain view healthcare as a human right I consider all things that impact help to be part of the health system, including car, safety, environmental safety, food safety. They extend far beyond just having a place to go when you get sick or injured. 

And the outcomes? Spaniards live longer healthier lives. Infant mortality rates are lower. Vaccination rates are north of 95%. And freely available mind you. The cost of care is far lower and the percent of GDP spent on healthcare in Spain (9.3%) is half of what it is in the United States (17.8%) meaning we spend way more on our healthcare for much worse quality care. 

As I’m writing this, I’m reading about the first cases of measles to present themselves in my home state of Iowa. Spain, and all other developed countries in the world do not have measles outbreaks. Why? Because RFK and the agencies he now runs have sown doubt on the safety and efficacy of vaccines. They ignore long established scientific literature, showing vaccinations are both safe and effective for preventing measles and other communicable diseases that we had previously eradicated. Vaccines don’t cause autism. They cause adulthood. It’s time we stop playing politics with our healthcare and go back to relying on evidence and science-based practice. 

Dr. Pablo explains the holistic viewpoint of healthcare shared by Spaniards. 

This table presents the numbers when comparing the US, France, and Spain. This numbers speak for themselves.