Spain Day 18: End of the Road

We are officially at the end of our journey. Our charge was to explore and hopefully better understand why these two cities in particular are often considered to be among the healthiest in the world. After nine days in Madrid and eight days in Valencia, these are my closing thoughts which are inspired by my personal experience and the conversions I’ve had with the wonderful group of students who joined me on this journey. 

My crew

Madrid is by every definition a community. While considered by many Spaniards to be fast paced and hurried (6.5 million people), our group saw Madrid in a different light. This city is alive. More than just the bustling movement, Madrid is characterized by its warm and thoughtful people.  Couples are often holding hands, kissing, and whispering into each other’s ears about things only they would understand.  Cafes on every corner are filled with small groups of people enjoying each other’s company over an espresso or glass of wine. Spirited conversations permeate the city at nearly all times of day. There is an overwhelming sense of collectiveness and camaraderie at multiple levels. The people, places, and things are so tightly connected in this thoughtfully designed city.  To paint the cityscape would require some combination of old world architecture, narrow streets lined with cafes, and of course people. 

Valencia, on the other hand, is an enigma. A juxtaposition in which old world charm meets urban artistry. A rare place where long stretching sandy beaches nearly connect with rugged mountainscapes. It’s enough to make any outdoors person drool. While the metro population nears 2.5 million people, it has the feel of a small fishing village at times. The energy overall could be described as relaxed, tranquil, and almost harmonic. While Spaniards don’t use the term “work/life balance”, Valencians have mastered this as an art form.  Work is done but not at the expense of taking a break to relax and appreciate the day and each other. There is a clear sense of pride, unity and solidarity amongst its residents. To be Valencian is a good thing.  Still, it’s clear change is on horizon with young people eager for a fresh future.  It’s difficult to predict the direction this sleepy city will go. Whichever direction they choose, you can bet it will be authentic. 

Back to our educational mission. What makes the Spanish cities so healthy?  Both are fortunate to have a social healthcare system that ensures everyone receives the care that they need. But there are slight differences between them. Madrid is the older sibling, a well established model of what a city should be. Its thoughtfully connected urban design makes this one the most walkable cities in the world (#5 in the most recent poll). The cuisine is fresh and in line with a Mediterranean diet. But more than anything, the social culture of Madrid is what makes this city a model of health. By contrast, Valencia is the new kid on the block. Still growing and establishing its independence. Its relaxed culture, access to active recreation, and abundance of fresh seafood support its bid as one of the healthiest cities in the world. 

In closing, I’d like to step back and compare Spain and the United States as countries and how each views public health. Comparing these two is like comparing two sailing boat races. In one race, everyone gets a similar size boat with a similar size sale. And everyone gets a slight breeze behind their back to help ensure they finish the race. In the other race, only those who can afford it, receive a boat and/or a sale. The wealthiest get the best boats, sales, and a robust breeze to their back (even though they likely don’t need it). The poor are not guaranteed a boat or sale and likely will have to fight a headwind for the entire race. Just finishing the race for this group is a challenge in itself. 

Circle Segments, Moholy-Nagy, 1921

Now, if you’ve stuck with me for this long, I’m guessing you can decide which race we Americans find ourselves in. As a White, educated, middle-class male, I feel very fortunate to be in the boat I initially inherited from my hard-working, kind and smart parents. I like to think that I’ve taken that boat and added to it through education and marrying an incredible partner (that’s you baby!). But each day, as I see those less fortunate than me drift further into the horizon, I feel a combination of guilt, sadness, and frustration. Because it doesn’t have to be this way!!  We can, and should, take lessons from models like Spain to do a better job of taking care of those who need it. Ghandi said “The greatness of a nation can be measured by how it treats its weakest members.” Now not everything is perfect here. There is corruption and bureaucracy and limits on personal financial success. But I have to think there is a happy medium where everyone gets a boat, and a sale, and maybe a slight breeze at their back to ensure we all finish the race with dignity. And hopefully we can enjoy the view along the way. 

With tapas…and fancy trains. 

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Valencia Day 17: Adios Valencia

Today is our last day in Valencia. The week has flown by. On our last day, we were joined by Dr. Cesar Ángeles, a practicing physician who happens to originally be from the state of Florida. Dr. Angeles showed us around the private clinic he started in the 90’s. His clinic looks very much like something you would find in the United States. Much more modern looking than the clinic we’ve seen thus far.

 Interestingly, Dr. Angeles teaches classes on healthcare and food and nutrition. Today we heard a bit about the Mediterranean diet and how the style of eating came to be in this region. It’s more complicated than he might think with cultural, religious, climate, and terrain related contributors. However, it came to be, the research is pretty clear that populations who regularly follow a Mediterranean diet, tend to be healthier and live longer lives.

We’ve been fortunate enough to experience many versions of the Mediterranean diet while here in Spain. My lunch today was a perfect example. For the menu del dia, I ordered a mixed salad to start followed by grilled hike for my entree. This of course was accompanied by bread, olives, and olive oil. It was warm so I ordered a Tinto de Verano (red wine and lemon soda on ice) which is common in Valencia. 

It’s pretty easy to eat healthy when this is the standard.

After lunch, I want to experiment with some of the public transit options in the city. Valencia, you have an option of taking the metro, the bus, the tram, a taxi, or using the city wide bike share. I wanted to test my skill with the bike share so I hopped on a steel horse and headed back to the residence hall. In Valencia, this is an incredible option. To sign up, it’s 30 Euro for the year. Then for each hour you ride, you are charged 1 Euro. The great thing about Valencia is, they have designed their streets specifically with biking in mind. Major roads have a combination of sidewalks, bike lanes, a row for parking, several lanes for cars and buses, and a section for the tram. There is something for everyone!

Bike lanes are completely separate from car lanes which makes for an enjoyable ride. 

Just check a bike out from a station and return it to another station near your destination. Plus the bikes have baskets!

This evening we had our farewell dinner. We called it family dinner because for some reason, that’s how it felt. Without discussing it, most everyone dressed up for the occasion, even though the restaurant was not fancy by any standard. We sat along table and enjoyed each other’s conversation. A far different experience than the first time we shared a meal, which was painfully quiet and awkward. There is now an undeniable bond that has developed between these students. And for me, I’ve never felt closer to a group of students. 

Tomorrow, we take the train back to Madrid, where most of these students will grab a flight back to the States. I’ll be reflecting on this experience and will try to sum things up in one final post. (Oooh, that’s a good teaser for a finale!) Stay tuned…

València Day 16: The Hanging Bridges

Today was…an adventure. We took a day trip to a small town called Chulilla, which is the site of the hanging bridges.  A one hour drive into the mountains followed by a 3.5 mile hike into a canyon that resembles the Grand Canyon. The hike runs along a beautiful crystal clear creek that seems to call to you as the temperature rises in the afternoon.  And once again, I had the opportunity to embrace my inner Indiana Jones. Trekking through the canyon requires two bridge crossings that look very similar to the bridges depicted in the classic Temple of Doom scene. Good for us, we didn’t run into any henchmen with swords!!

A bit wobbly but they get the job done. 

A spiting image of Dr. Jones, I know.

After our hike we enjoyed a picnic lunch in a small park in the town of Chulilla. Bocadillo sandwiches were on the menu. These are similar to sub sandwiches but the bread is a bit wider and comes with a small amount of crunch. I ordered the Chivito which is the signature sandwich of València and it didn’t disappoint. A thin chicken breast topped with bacon, aioli, tomato, lettuce and a fried egg. Money. As we have bonded over the past few weeks, meals with the group are very enjoyable. As I mentioned tomorrow being our last day of class, I could sense a bit of collective sadness. 

After lunch, we hiked to the local castle. Because you know, every town has to have a castle! (Actually most do here.) A hold over from the 14th century, this partial castle is perched on top of the town like a crown. While much of the remains have deteriorated, the beauty is unmistakable. 

The castle can be seen running horizontally just above the white houses.

Now the fun part. The plan was to end our day with a swim in the clear, cool pools of water that graced the canyon we had just hiked. Mother Nature, however, had other plans. “It never rains in València!” they say. Well today…it rained. Hard. And these rain drops felt different. Like an actual shower. I was very proud of the team for trudging through what can only be described as a biblical rain storm back to our bus. While cold, wet, and a little terrifying…it’s an experience none of us will soon forget. 

“It never rains here.” Liar!!

Valencia Day 15: No child left behind

Anne Frank said “No one has ever become poor by giving.” This lesson was crystallized for our group today as we visited the Foundation Incintiava Social, a social support program targeted to young children who are at risk of being left behind. Programs focus on teaching kids how to perform well as students, how to develop social skills and emotional intelligence, and how to be happy. Because kids are not independent, most programs also include the family to ensure that the support and improvements are long lasting. This amazing program is supported by a combination of government, funds and private donations. Similar to other social programs we’ve visited, much of the work is done by volunteers who give their time for a variety of reasons. 

Our instructor asked us to write (in Spanish) the reason we might volunteer. Most said to support the community. 

We learned most people volunteer to serve and support the community as a form of solidarity. But there’s good evidence that volunteering also positively impacts the volunteer themselves. Volunteers experience, personal growth, improved, self-confidence, and even reduced depression. In fact, it’s common for healthcare providers to refer patients to volunteer as part of their treatment for depression! This is unheard of in the U.S. This is the type of innovative therapy that can exist when doctors are not working within a healthcare system that requires them to bill for their time. 

The mission of this program falls directly in line with the overwhelmingly, giving culture of observed in Spain these past two weeks. Solidarity, caring for others, providing hope, ensuring no one is left behind. These are widely held values in the Spanish culture. This was a great warming way to start the day. 

After our visit, I joined a group of faculty from the Valencia University who invited me to lunch. We had a nice conversation and enjoyed some wonderful seafood paella filled with shrimp, calamari, and squid. Squid is very common here so many dishes include black squid ink (very salty) as an ingredient. Black rice for example. I’m not sure I’m a fan but I get it. 

Once vacation homes, the buildings that line this beach are now restaurants that offer locally sourced dishes. 

The second half of the day spent at the beach. It was a windy day, which is uncommon, but still very enjoyable. Today’s lesson is on beach culture. For adults, tops are apparently optional. For children under the age of four, there are no rules.  Naked babies and toddlers are the norm. 

Better than a sound machine. 

Valencia Day 14: Montanejos High!

Today we took a day trip to Montenajos Springs. This is a one hour drive north from the beach to the mountains.  The drive alone is worth the trip. Rolling hills of vineyard vines and olive trees. Flowers of all colors line the highway. 

The Spanish equivalent of John Denver (whoever that is) likely sang a song about this place. 

One our way, we passed through a small town of Cuadiel I’m struck by the fact that it has everything it needs including a downtown area with a market, pharmacy, parks, churches, etc. Being from a small town, I was happy to see one here that seemed to be thriving. 

Our first activity was a 5 mile loop hike. The trails are lined with rosemary which grows like a weed here. Likely the reason Spaniards often use it in their paella. We come across apricot trees and snap pea trees as well. Remnants of a forest fire limit some of our views but we are not to be deterred! Overall I’m very impressed at how well the trails are maintained. 

At the top of to the mountain, the forest becomes more dense with trees that look like the pine trees I grew up with. In fact, this place looks a lot like Spearfish Canyon in the Black Hills of South Dakota. For some reason, this makes me feel a little more connected to this place. Like I share something in common with the people who come here to enjoy its beauty. 

Over the hillls…

…and (literally) through the woods….

After the hike, it’s time for a drink which our guide Julio (mentioned in a previous post on M2M) tells me is a tradition. I support this tradition. We talk for an hour about the differences between our two countries and find other ways to connect. A very enjoyable conversation that is a mainstay of Spanish culture. 

Then a 2 pm lunch. Pineapple and chicken salad as a starter followed by a delicious grilled pork shoulder that falls off the bone. Ice cream and coffee for dessert. I’m happy. 😊 

Once our bellies are full we walk a few steps to the Fuentes De Los Banos (Fountains of the Baths). This is a picturesque swimming area that is the kind of place you would find on Instagram. Entry is only 3 Euro.  Filled with minerals, the water is crystal clear with a Caribbean blue tint. And the place is filled with families. All ages are represented, which in my book, is always a good sign.  We swim for an hour and then warm ourselves in the sun for our last hour. My students tell me the UV is an 8 so this is ideal sun time! 🙄 

I mean come on!

Fuente de los banos. 

Today’s lesson for me was not about Spain but about the importance of connecting with my students and colleagues. Too often we (I) focus on the outcomes that lead to promotion and salary increases and less on the human aspect of my work. Leading this class and getting to know these students has been one the most genuine career related experiences I’ve ever had. More of this. 

Valencia Day 13: Biking Valencia

It’s Saturday so the city is busier than usual. We took the bus from our residence hall to the city center for a tour of Mercat Central, the largest food market in Valencia. We first toured the original 15th century marketplace, which is unused today. This is the birthplace of the idea of taxes. The building held three things: a market, a jail for thrives, and a courthouse to try those suspected of crimes. 

Orange trees grow in the middle of the old market. No touchy!

The original 15th century market. The columns used to be painted as palm trees, and the ceiling was a blue sky with stars.

This is the courthouse. The person suspected of a crime would be visible in the window above the judge table for all to see. The ceiling is in elaborate wood crown molding with actual gold painted onto it.

Next week heard the current market (Mercat Central) which is across the street. Marquette Central. “Fresh” is the word I would use to describe the market, and the food scene in general, in Valencia. My lunch today consisted of fresh berries and freshly shucked oysters. 

Mercat Central. If you can’t find it here, it don’t exist. 

Funny looking tomatoes. 

Oyster shucker lady. 

We ended the day with a bike tour through the city. Touring a European on bike is like bucket list material for me so I very much enjoyed this! In my opinion, there is no better way to see a city. And Valencia has built a bike infrastructure that makes this easy to do. In fact, Valencia is considered the greenest city in Europe, in part due to a park that meanders through it like a river. In fact, it used to be a river! Valencia was very much like Venice and its aqua-ducts until they got their engineering on and moved the river to the outskirts of the city. 

I don’t think a picture would do this justice so I took my life in my hands and took a couple of videos to illustrate how fun this is. You’re welcome.

City of Arts and Sciences Monuments of Valencia regularly host art shows, concerts, and lots of parties. 

A second video just for grins. 

Valencia Day 12: Paella!!!

Among other things, Valencia is known for its food. Paella is the signature dish. Today we had a great opportunity to learn how to cook paella from a MasterChef. 

This is one of the most fun experiences I’ve had here in Spain. We started the class by going to the market, which was right across the street. This place was amazing. Seasonal fruits and vegetables, olives, beans, meats, and seafood of the freshest variety. In the United States, the food in this market would’ve been marked up to the point that they might only be accessible to those with extra cash to burn. This is not the case in Spain. Fruits and vegetables are heavily subsidized by the government making them accessible to all. And Spaniards take pride in knowing where their food comes from and choosing the freshest product. Seafood, rabbit, and chicken are presented as a whole animal. This is because you can only choose fresh protein by looking into its eyes and seeing the color of the head.  It scares me that I did not know how to select a fresh fish up until today. 

Onions are a major debate in Spain. It is said that some families “raise their children with onions” and others “raise their children without onions.” There’s no in between.

$1.50 for 2.2 lbs of yummy nectarine goodness

👀 “So fresh and so clean!” - OutKast

Our instructor then patiently taught us how to make three dishes: a Spanish omelette as a starter, traditional paella as the main meal, and an orange cinnamon, dessert cake.

A Spanish omelet is a combination of egg, potatoes, and onions cooked in a fry pan. 

We learned it is traditional to eat and drink as you cook. Not to be left out, we followed suit and enjoyed some sangria, jamon, and crackers while we cooked. We learned that traditional Valencia’s paella is not actually called paella but rather “community rice” or “rice with things.” And while many think paella must include seafood, Valencians would never desecrate the dish with seafood. Chicken, rabbit, and snails (gross) are the only acceptable proteins to include! Paella was born as peasant food and was made of ingredients most available. 

The pan we cooked in was literally the size of a saucer sled. The reason for this is paella must never be more than one inch deep and if you are going to cook for your whole family, you better have one big pan. We learned that the rice must be short rice in order to absorb all of the water and flavor. The rice must also be a yellow color, ideally achieved with saffron ($$$) or food coloring. But maybe the most fun part of this experience was burning rosemary in order to create a smoky, Rosemary flavor. 

Cook your chicken first in olive oil, then your snap peas. 

Add spices and water and let it simmer. When ready, add the rice so that it can soak up all the juices.

Burn the rosemary on the fire below the pan for the smoky sensation.

The final product.

When it was all set and done, we sat and enjoyed our delicious meal together. We engaged in conversation and laughed about the many mistakes that we made. It’s amazing how the act of cooking can bring people together. Today, we felt like true Spaniards.